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> Motorcycle Electric Conversion
dmg
Posted: August 04, 2017 10:13 pm
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or..search for a machine shop and do plan 1 as that, in my opinion is a better plan...
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crane550
Posted: August 05, 2017 04:13 am
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Looking good. Can't wait to see it all come together.

I have been riding quite a bit myself. 7,000 miles so far this year. Of course I'm propelled by old fashioned rotting dinosaurs.

https://goo.gl/photos/8599GsFDM4FQQpPC9


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AwesomeMatt
Posted: August 06, 2017 12:15 am
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QUOTE
7,000 miles so far this year. Of course I'm propelled by old fashioned rotting dinosaurs.


Why would you ever want to go more than 20 miles at a time or refuel without waiting 5 hours though? tongue.gif

I've been out buying and trying on various used helmets this week, and my favorite thing has become telling people what I'll ride and seeing their faces go from excited to miserable when I tell them it'll be electric because it had a blown engine.
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AwesomeMatt
Posted: August 08, 2017 08:08 am
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As the phrase goes, "A stupid idea that works is not stupid."

Well, jury's still out.

"The right tool for the job is the one you can make work."

I reserve my conclusion.

What should've been 15 minutes with a lathe and mill was several hours of neanderthalling around.

user posted image

1 - The plan. Sure.

2 - Chop. Abrasive blade in a wood chop saw, vice balanced on the surface.

3 - Shape. Woohoo, a tool being used for its correct purpose.

4 - Round. Rounder anyway.

5 - Smooth. Belt sander made quick work of turning it down to the right diameter. Too quick of work. Took some spots too low and left others too high. Whoops. Should've started here, 10x as fast as the bench grinder.

6 - Test. It's supposed to mimic and replace the tranny output there. Moving along.

7 - Fixture. With packing tape and the last of the hot glue from the sewing room.

8 - Mark. manually gouged it with the dremel then clamped it in the vice trying to make a slitting saw. Worked terribly. Couldn't find the arbor for wheels so I kludged the sanding drum to hold it.

9 - Widen. A shocking amount of hacksawing and filing, attempting to shape teeth into the coupler,

10 - Compare. Well it seemed to match but it wasn't. Embiggening the slots more didn't help. Just wouldn't go. Went back and forth tweaking for hours.

11 - Jam. Eventually I gave up and decided to hammer it in a bit to see where it was biting. Oh hey, maybe once I start it it's going to keep going? Oh, nope, I was wrong. Okay well I'll just pull it back out then. Hrm. Maybe I use the vice? And a prybar? Okay then I guess it's going in and staying in now. No? Sledgehammer will fix that.

12 - Good Enough. I guess if I ever need the U-Joint back the way it was, I just saw out the adapter and chisel the pieces free. For now, the motor shaft will couple to the driveshaft and that's all I care about.

Hopefully it went in moderately square.

...

It was going really well until "machining" the teeth. For all the time I spent on it I'd lop off and weld the tranny output directly if I had to do it again (which I can't, because the U-joint now has an adapter smashed into it.

...

Next up, chop the pump housing and trim the coupling shaft.

Then, test jig the motor with wood and shims and see if I can find the sweet spot for aligning the shaft.

Then metal.

Then batteries.

Then test drive.

Then find brake lines and headlights and windshield (ebay says $50 for brake line, $250 for headlight/shield/coupler, I say... no).

user posted image
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Sch3mat1c
Posted: August 08, 2017 09:40 am
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Can't say I've seen anyone hacksaw their own spline. Looks good, too! (Maybe you were hiding the ugly side, Idunno laugh.gif )

If you do ever need it back out... weld a cap onto it around the top rim, and hammer that out. Or use the hydraulic jack method to extract bearings, except it's not a bearing (stuff the hole with axle grease and paper towel, pound the everloving fuck out of it with a hammer and drift or hydraulic press). That might not work well on account of the small area (it's just a small ring, not a full thick bearing).

Tim


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AwesomeMatt
Posted: August 08, 2017 10:39 pm
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Can't say I've seen anyone hacksaw their own spline. Looks good, too!


I was quite proud of it right before I jammed it into the U-joint. I didn't take any pics of it because it was just a test fit, so, no evidence of the best it got tongue.gif

QUOTE
Or use the hydraulic jack method to extract bearings


Can't... the U-joint is hollow, there's nowhere to pack the grease against. Also it doesn't appear to be disassembleable. So I can't get at the back end of the U-joint.
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AwesomeMatt
Posted: August 09, 2017 09:00 am
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Was curious, so I bought a scale:

user posted image

91.3 pounds. Decent.

"Next up, chop the pump housing and trim the coupling shaft."

user posted image

That was the easy one.

user posted image

Took about 10 minutes to cut the pump housing in half once I figured out how, where, and what was needed. Didn't expect this to be a whole evening's work, but, that's what it took.

user posted image

Another feature of having sledged the spline adapter in yesterday.. it shrunk the inner splines a touch too. Enough to make them need to be hammered on as well, just not as hard. And... to not learn from my mistakes, I once again had a hell of a time trying to undo the test fit.

user posted image

Okay, pump flange/shaft back together, and shaft now ends in U-joint. Ready to be mounted to motor. Driveline completed!

user posted image

Completed-ish. I might be out of room and need to extend the pump shaft splines closer to the motor an inch or so. It's not easy to just... pick up and test fit in the bike. First test-fit will figure that out for me I suppose.
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Sch3mat1c
Posted: August 09, 2017 09:43 am
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QUOTE (AwesomeMatt @ August 08, 2017 04:39 pm)
Can't... the U-joint is hollow, there's nowhere to pack the grease against. Also it doesn't appear to be disassembleable. So I can't get at the back end of the U-joint.

Guessing the pins are pressed in or something. More press action, no doubt.

But as long as it works, there are more... pressing matters to work on biggrin.gif

Tim


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AwesomeMatt
Posted: August 10, 2017 12:39 am
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Guessing the pins are pressed in or something. More press action, no doubt.


Worse. Pressed and then the housing is peened a half-dozen times each side so they can't ever back out.
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AwesomeMatt
Posted: August 10, 2017 09:09 am
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Well, I half-assed the alignment. Tranny mount points were in the way so I have to go at it with an angle grinder to even test fit it, and I didn't have one.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f9xwZYSkW70 <-- It spins, however clunkily. Speed controller ain't happy soft starting with the u-joint elbowed either.
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AwesomeMatt
Posted: August 18, 2017 12:05 am
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No new pics. Mostly a week of paperwork and phone calls. Fabbed some new motor mounts. Did some embarrassing welding, first time I've welded in 5 years (and I've welded maybe an hour total).

Got the alignment sorted pretty good I think, doesn't clunk at all and I cranked it as fast as it'd go on 12v without issues.

I traded the coils and Honda coverplates for a wrecked front fender. It's cracked in half but I can probably do some fiberglass repair or, at the very least, use it as a guide to fab my own from sheet metal.

3 questions for the bike/Honda guys...

I need:
- A rectangular headlight lens. And the headlight... bulb I'll just buy, but what about the lens? I'm not even peripherally aware of what the usual shopping places are for bike parts. Do I buy a used original? Is there a replica supply place? Cheap LED ones from China? Make one from plastic? DOT requirements? Plan A is to drop $20+shipping off Ebay.

- Brake lines looks like I could go to any auto shop, but, is there a better place to go to get that done? It's looking like it'll be $80 for the pair. Old ones from Ebay for $40-ish and just buy new one-time washers for the banjos.

- Tires. I could just go to a store, but is there a cheaper/better place to go buy tires? Particular online stores you'd recommend? I hear people derogatorily refer to "cheapest chinese tire they could find" and I'm thinking "Aha! A cheap chinese tire, sounds perfect, where do I get one?"

...

Insurance is a bit of a struggle. Reasons I can't be insured various places:
- Not off the shelf.
- Electric? Sorry.
- 30+ years old? Doesn't matter the value, no.
- Did any work on it yourself? No.

The only one I've found who'll insure (so far, and they may still turn me down when they ask more questions) insists on comprehensive, for $500/year. Which, for how short the Canadian riding season is, probably wouldn't even save me anything on gas to switch over for the commute. I mean, I'll do it anyways so that I can ride, but, it's not fun.

One broker suggested I get a letter from the manufacturer describing the conversion and then call back. Honda wouldn't go near that, if it's not in a book they can look up they will not offer an opinion, even a negative opinion to say "Do not alter the following components" just so the insurance company had something to narrow it to.

Some hundreds of guys have done conversions, makes me wonder how they're getting insurance. Maybe existing policies and brokers wanting to keep customers?

...

Good news on registration:
- it is not (reported as) stolen
- it is not from out of province (requiring a $150 "out of province inspection" where shops do their best to find everything wrong because you have to pay for another inspection unless you also hire them to do the work).
- it does not have any registration flags (salvage, never repair, etc).

So, reg wise, $50 for a plate and I'm good. If I change anything (moped to motorcycle, power, whatever), $9 to modify the title. Cheap cheap.

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